The Rhodope Caterpillar – A Slow Journey Through the Magic of the Eastern Rhodopes
“The Rhodope Caterpillar” – that’s the nickname for the train that crawls along the slopes of the Rhodope Mountains on the Dimitrovgrad – Haskovo – Kardzhali – Podkova village route. This is not the legendary narrow-gauge train, but an ordinary diesel train with modern railcars. The comparison to a caterpillar is no coincidence! With its wagons swaying to the rhythm of the curves, the train truly resembles a caterpillar that’s in no hurry. It moves at 40–60 km/h, and in some sections even as slow as 25 km/h, as if savoring every moment of the journey.
A pleasant detail is that the panoramic railway route takes around three hours, and a one-way ticket costs only 6–7 BGN. In recent years, more and more tourists have been using the train as a means to reach natural and historical landmarks. One such site is the Wooden Mosque of the Seven Maidens in Podkova village, located just 700 meters from the train station. With the new 2025 BDZ timetable, there is now a midday train to Podkova, making day trips to the Eastern Rhodopes possible with a return by evening.
Another interesting stop is Momina Skala, from where travelers can reach the longest suspension bridge in Bulgaria, leading to Lisitsite village. This remote village has just 15–20 residents and is only accessible on foot or by train. From there, visitors can hike to Chit Kaya – the rock niches above the village, believed to be an ancient Thracian sanctuary.
Shiroko Pole Station is the starting point for reaching Moniak Medieval Fortress – one of the most impressive in the Eastern Rhodopes. It’s about a 40–50-minute walk from the center of Shiroko Pole village. Another fascinating route begins from Sredna Arda Station, located in a protected natural area. The station sits right on the shore of the “Studen Kladenets” reservoir, offering a stunning panoramic view. Above the stop, there are rock niches and small caves, home to bats. Passengers can also get off at Kaloyantsi Station, which leads to one of the peaks in the region – Yumruk Kaya, above Kaloyantsi village.
The “caterpillar” also passes by Ptichar village – the birthplace of world-renowned weightlifter Naim Suleymanoglu. In recent years, the local community has been working on restoring his childhood home and creating a museum dedicated to his legacy.
Tourists are increasingly using the “caterpillar” for day trips through the hidden corners of the Eastern Rhodopes. Thus, from an ordinary means of transportation, the Dimitrovgrad – Podkova train is becoming a worthy competitor to the narrow-gauge railway, attracting lovers of slow, scenic, and romantic journeys.
Text: Bozhidar Cholakov – BNR
